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The Red Sea
Currently in the Red Sea, a narrow body of water, boarded
by Yemen & Saudi Arabia on its East & Eritrea,
Sudan, & Egypt
on its West is heavily transited by various types of vessels, ranging from large
menacing commercial freighters to small private sailing yachts. All these vessels, no matter the size
or reason for this transit, seek one thing, a safe passage through the notorious
Pirate Alley, located in the Gulf of Aden, the southern approach to the Red Sea.
A report that large and small vessels alike have been targeted in this
zone, all precaution is taken for a safe passage while sailing these waters.
Meeting up with four other sailing yachts, 50 nautical miles
South of Al Mukalla, we formed a convoy to transit
Pirate Alley, a 250 nautical mile strip located between Somalia & Yemen, was one way we could insure our safety sailing these
waters. Even though this area is
known for piracy, there was a 1% chance that our tightly knit group would not
have been attacked. But having heard
of a French luxury cruise ship taken by pirates and its crew of 30 as
hostages a week earlier, we were not going to take any chances as we made our
way to Aden.
Entering into the busy commercial harbor of Aden,
the Port Control Authorities sent us to the allocated anchorage for private
vessels. The coffee colored hills
surrounding the anchorage, highlighted by the backdrop of the sun looks
deceivingly tranquil and hospitable under the twilight’s glow. But this environment’s rough
terrain houses cubed, clay coated buildings looking as if they were etched
out of the hardened earth. The
soil no longer releases nutrients to support lush green swatches of color,
but kicks up dust when disturbed, while a determined people make a life on
this arid, but oil rich land.
This country and Red Sea
region is the most intimidating place we’ve visited yet. Most fears were laid to rest as we
walked the streets of the city, gathering the provisions needed for the next
leg of our Red Sea navigation, as men would walk up to us and ask where we
were from. Many surprised by our US citizenship, some taken aback and a little hesitant
in continuing a conversation, but most simply replied with a smile,
“Welcome to Aden.”
Like most destinations lacking in tourists, the novelty of
exotic foreigners attract attention and a westernized females blending into a
society with Burka clad women, makes it impossible
to walk around anonymously. This
is another first, strolling the street to find women dressed in flowing black
cloth draped from head to toe, giving the impression of ghostly shadows. But surprisingly a few would approach
us foreign women, when away from the males in our group and ask us questions
as well. This country, once an English
protectorate still displays the signs of the old Empire’s influence
with remaining architecture and linguistic skills stamped on this
culture. Many Yemenis we spoke to
made reference that their Northern brethren were not well received in the
South, the civil war between the two regions bitterly ended in 1994 and life
for the residents in the South became more of a regimented Islamic
state.
Only staying in Aden
for three days, we decided to take advantage of the southerly wind and make
our heading as far north as possible.
The Red Sea has constant strong NW
winds that dramatically slow the process of northbound boats. Hiding out along the coasts of Eritrea and Sudan
for days at a time, is the usual tactic, waiting for the winds to abate can make
the transit to the Suez Canal, a 6 week
event. But having luck and wind
on our side, skipping Eritrea
and landing in Sudan
made the first section of this sea a breeze.
Deciding to only plan one day in Saukin,
Sudan to refuel and top up our water bladders, the plan was to sail to
Dolphin reef, 90 miles South of Port Ghalib of
Egypt, before the predicted 30 knot NW winds started. This brief stop in Sudan, a poor
and sad place to dwell, still appeared to inhabit residents happy to welcome
visitors. Knowing that Sudan is responsible for the atrocities in Darfur and witnessing some of
the most deprived conditions we’ve seen yet, I have pity for these
residents, trying to exist within a detestable form of government, which a 20
year civil war appeared to make no difference. I truly don’t know all the
events of this country, and I am only a visitor, a grateful one that can
leave this place and feel appreciative for where I was born.
Not quite making it to Dolphin reef, we anchored 15 miles
south of it, off the shores of a hooked shaped beach and reef called Ras Banas. The last 15 miles took us eight hours
to complete once the wind and waves were on our nose. Gladly and safely waiting out the
blow, we have the company of seven other boats. Our cruising buddies Ohana Kai,
Pelikaan and Luna are with us and as we make our way to the Mediterranean,
all of us will have our separate plans for the next few months. In fact, the two Dutch boats, Pelikaan
and Luna will be returning home to Holland
and mark the end of their circumnavigation. While Ohana Kai and Moorea will
continue on to the west as we complete our prospective goals.
Now we are preparing to meet up Kelly’s (the captain)
Aunt Jana in Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt. We are looking forward to seeing her
again and plan to explore areas of Egypt with her. Thanks to all that sent us emails and
kept us in touch with the happenings back home. We will keep in touch where we find
internet access.
Cheers
First Mate Kelly
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