The Mediterranean

As we beat our way out of the Suez Canal, our destination was Marmaris, Turkey. But the high northwest winds had another plan for us all together. As the wind progressed, we felt drained and didn’t have the desire to battle the on coming waves, so when Sand Piper, a fellow American vessel said they were going to Cyprus to repair their damaged dolphin striker, which is the wire that is attached from the bow of the boat to their bow sprit, making it very weak and no sail could be hoisted from it. We decided to go there as well; the direction of the wind would make for a better sail to that destination.

As we entered the Cyprus harbor, the harbor control hailed us on VHF 16. We indicated we just wanted to rest for a day or so and not check into the country. He announced that anchoring in the harbor would be fine, just do not step on land.

The stop at Cyprus did wonders for us and we were shortly on our way. The wind was tolerable and we were able to make a descent heading for Turkey under sail. As we arrived, Ohana Kai welcomed us to our new port. Anchored off the town of Marmaris, we were able to easily dinghy to shore and enjoy the many activities this bustling tourist town had to offer. One day we all went to the Water Slide Park.

To the cruising world, this part of Turkey is known as a winter haven for yachts avoiding any VAT tax the European Union would impose on vessels not registered in the EU. The marinas and amenities are also a bit more reasonably priced than the European countries, thus cruisers flock to Turkey and have made a nice little community amongst citizens and other tourists. In fact, I found it hard to believe this was a Muslim nation. Few women were dressed head to toe in a bourka and liquior can easily be purchased. The European influence is strong here, but I was told that if we had ventured into the western side of Turkey, we would see the traditional side of Islam.

This was another country we would recommend others to visit. A vast amount of history and culture awaits the visitor and for a cruiser, the anchorages had good holding and well were protected.

As we crossed over to Greece, we found more calm and picturesque anchorages, but had a terrible time getting a spot in a marina at Athens. Even though there were plenty of marinas to choose from in the Athens vicinity, it didn’t mean the marina would want you, even if there was room. But we finally found a spot at Marina Neo Faliro where the transportation to the Acropolis was spot on. Navigating our way through the city was easy and cheap.

After a few stops in Greece, we separated with our cruising buddies, Ohana Kai and made our way to Italy. We decided to take a ferry from Brindisi, Italy to Croatia, where our friend Rudy was to pick us up and drive four hours to Sarajevo, Bosnia. He was visiting from the States for the summer and we were able to meet up with him.

Spending time with a person that knows your own culture and can translate and share theirs was on of the best experiences we have had in another country. Usually we have a language barrier and we have to figure things out on our own or find a person that knows just enough English that can help out. Having Rudy to guide us was invaluable and meeting his extended family and friends along the way was fun too.

After a week of good Bosnian food and coffee, we went back to Brindisi and stayed a few days longer. We liked this town that was off the beaten tourist path. Food was more reasonable, the people went out of their way to help, and we had a free spot on the town quay to tie up Moorea.

In the summer, Italians like to break out of their four walls and stroll the Piazza’s and quay eating gelato as they saunter. All ages join in the activity. The elderly sit along the benches, young couples with baby strollers accompanied by the grandparents show off their heirs to other boasting grandparents. Teenagers walk along, side by side with their parents as well; it truly is a family affair. They keep up this nightly activity well into Midnight. Maybe this is why there is a break of business hours, about four hours every work day, to rest from the prior night.

Traveling around the heel of Italy, we did our best to find anchorages that were protected from the elements, but there are few and that was the only time we were greatful that there was little or no wind. Otherwise, we wished there was a decent breeze to sail on, instead we motored thus our fuel consumption was high and with prices around $10 USD/gallon, out fuel budget was out the door.

We had a date to meet up with our friend Stephen and Yvonne. They were spending three weeks in Europe and one week would be with us. We met up in Rome and toured the city for a day and then took a train back to Gaeta where Moorea was anchored. We tried to get into the Marina for an overnight stay, but all we found were full and very expensive.

The time we spent with Stephen and Yvonne went fast. We sailed to Ischia & Capri Island, sailed along the Amalfi coast where a gale force wind disturbed our happy adventure and settled in Solerno to do some land sight seeing. The transit system on land was not too kind to us, with delayed buses and trains, but we managed through all of it. The bus ride along the steep cliffs of the Amalfi coast were just as thrilling as the whirl wind, sail we had on the water side. Our Pompei adventure was awesome and got our legs in shape with walking the same streets of the doomed Romans.

After the visit, Kelly and I stocked up on some fresh food and made our way out of Italy, Island hopping to Ponza, and Sardina. I was so entranced by Sardina, I wrote a quick description of our morning sail to my mother…..

We made it to Sardinia last night and anchored in a nice quiet bay for a good nights sleep. Now we are having a quiet sail through the Bonifacio Straits, with calm seas and a light breeze. The weather is a bit cool, so we are snug in our fleece, enjoying a cup of coffee while we sail past the hilly terrain of this island, there are golden boulders near the shore with jagged mountains, in the back drop. Green shrubs are scattered in patches within the rocks and you can see some resorts, but they blend into the scenery along with the homes. There are many small boats out this morning enjoying the breeze along with us. These are the moments I cherish on our journey. A perfect slow and peaceful sail.

We would only anchor at these islands, not venturing ashore, since we were late in the season to be on this side of the Mediterranean. We needed to get to Spain and kept our pace moving, but making short hops, stopping at night off an island for a good nights sleep.

Hearing from Ohana Kai that Menorca, one of the Balearic Islands, had a well protected bay, we stopped there for two days, purchased a few more perishable items and resumed our pace.

The frustration of motoring was evident on the Captains face as a head wind would be the prominent wind, it seemed like no matter the direction we would want to go in the Mediterranean, a head wind would develop. The seas would be choppy and bounce the boat around, so walking below in the cabin required active hands.

Yet we finally made it to the mainland of Spain. As we settled in Cartegena for a couple of days, I found decent airfare rates to Norway and we decided this was the best time to for me to visit my friend Kim in Norway. My excursion to this Nordic land was a nice break from the boat, but the Captain had another experience all together.

He was to bring the boat to Gibraltar, where we were to meet up again. He moved the boat from Cartegena, about 100 miles to Almermara and hunkered down for the gale force winds that hit that coast line. Two days he was hiding out from the elements, even though his anchorage was protected, the swell and waves made their way in and the wind made Moorea heel at anchor…sleeping was next to impossible. When the wind abated, the captain was able to make his destination and we met up after a week apart. We have been together 24 hours per day, 7 days per week for the last three years and to be separated for one week was strange and felt a lot longer.

Now we are leaving the Mediterranean Sea and will enter the Atlantic Ocean for the Canary Islands and then the long passage across this vast water. God willing there will be fair winds.