Adventures on the Sailing Vessel Moorea

Captain’s Log

New Zealand

November 6th 2006

Tonga to New Zealand: 35°18.91’S Lat. and 174°07.35’E Lon.

Before leaving Tonga I decided to move the boat from the calm anchorage at Pangiamotu to an anchorage on the west side of Tonga Tapu, because the anchorage wasn’t as protected I got used to the motion of our boat and did not have to worry as much about seasickness. Flexibility when sailing is a must, having prepared the boat and ourselves for a visit to Minerva Reef, we ended up sailing past it in order to make it to NZ before the next low. If anything the winds were a bit on the low side, having to motor 46 hours (a record high) total including 1.5 hours a day charging with the motor. We are very conservative with the amps and now with an LED tricolor the motor doesn’t even have to run (as long as we have sun for our 2 Kyocera 125 panels). Without getting into the details of the daily routine the following are extracts from my log book (with a few elaborations) at 24 hour intervals:

Day 1

Leaving at 06:00 gave us enough light to see the reef and were able to sail clear of any dangers. Waves boarding boat and cockpit, wind up to 25 knots so we took the main down. Gorgeous full moon that rose just as twilight faded.

Day 2

First day’s run totaled 131 NM, sailing with one reef in the main and our 115% jib. Decided to skip Minerva reef because of a low that is forming, we have five days to get 540 NM south and beat the low.

Day 3

Second day’s run up to 134 NM, now sailing with full sail. In the morning the wind was down to 6 apparent knots so we fired up “Johnny” (our engine) to “motor sail” and charge our batteries. Making 5 knots. Later on the sails were no longer holding themselves out, going to rig a line to prevent the boom from banging and set the spinnaker pole for the jib.

Day 4

Third day’s run our mileage was down to 120 NM, sailed wing and wing last night and now on a starboard broad reach. Starting to rain, dark clouds looming.

Day 5

Fourth day’s run we made 103 NM, still in the triple digits! Wind turned to the south so Moorea is close hauled and in so doing we are 50 NM off of the rhumb line. Currently long tacking 12 hours out and 12 hours back. Motor sailed for a few hours. At this point the waves were about 12-15 feet high; they came from a storm in the Tasman sea. Fortunately the wind was very light, I was amazed that even in slight wind our boat would sail up the swell and then over the top and back down. The waves were not a problem because the space between them was big. I did notice a new noise and after investigating found that all four bolts holding the upper rudder shaft had sheared off! To get a better look at what the rudder was doing I harnessed in and went to step on our windvane to view the movement coming from the rudder when my foot swung out over the water! A bolt had fallen out of the Monitor windvane (they have since corrected this problem with a bolt that has a hole in it and you seize it to the vane) replacing the bolt in the loose support tube I once again climbed out over the water to view the rudder. As the boat would roll with the big swell I could see the entire rudder moving from side to side under the load. Not wasting any more time I found four replacement bolts. They were slightly larger so I had to drill the holes out. Replacing the bolts the noise went away and I was relieved to know that the support for our shaft was restored. There is nothing like the thought of losing your steering halfway on a passage to keep your eyes and ears open for anything out of the ordinary. Fortunately our boat has a skeg hung rudder so that probably helped in keeping it with the boat.

Day 6

Our fifth day only showed 60 NM closer to New Zealand, we sailed many more miles than that but in having to tack we were only sixty miles closer. Started motor at 01:00 and motored to 07:00. NO WIND. Its fricken cold (60 degrees). Started Johnny again for a couple of hours and then sailed in light air to 21:00. Motoring again.

Day 7

Day’ run equaled 100NM, back up to triple digits. We have set a Moorea motor record at 12.5 hours of straight motoring and counting. Averaging 4 knots at 1,950 RPMs. A mostly sunny day with the temperature around 65 and a 4-6 foot swell. Our electric autopilot has taken over from our trusty wind vane. The pilot came with the boat and is used very little but we were experiencing problems with it. For some reason it would start to turn for no apparent reason and then beep at us because we were off course. I took it apart and there was definitely some salt water corrosion inside. Cleaning it with the all purpose WD-40 I was able to have it steer only with it upside down! The beeper never stopped but a throw pillow solved that problem.

Day 8

Finally sailing, raised sails at 03:00, our day’s run was up to 111 NM. The only problem was our wind had shifted to the SW and we were heading SSE. Monty steered the rest of the way. Possible arrival on the 15^th.

Day 9

Sailed into very light wind for over 16 hours, day’s run was 104 NM. Currently sailing on a broad reach towards Opua only 190 NM to go!

Day 10

Our wind has returned with 17-21 knots of wind and making great time. Running with a jib and reefed main we felt blessed to have the wind with us from the NW. Getting close to land! Can’t see it because of poor visibility, with the wind we also received rain and fog. We stepped up our watches being so close to land and it was a good thing because a giant containership loomed out of the fog heading straight for us! Kelly girl sleeping below was awakened by me hailing the massive ship. They never replied but fortunately saw us and turned to port. They were so close I could hear their motor chugging them along at close to 20 knots. Not even 10 minutes later they had disappeared back into the fog. Needless to say that was too close for comfort and it took a while for my heart rate to return to normal. Arriving in the Bay of Islands we felt happy and relieved. The clouds lifted to a sunny blue sky and gorgeous verdant green pastures and dark rocks that bordered the teal colored water. Motoring the last few miles we arrived at the customs dock at 15:15, were checked in less than an hour with no fees, I love this country already. The date was November 15^th 2006.

Kelly’s former co-worker Murray along with his wife, Julie and children invited us to their “bach” like a cabin on a lake about 6 hours drive south from Opua. We spent 3 days enjoying their company and using their ski boat for wakeboarding, tubing and skiing. Thank you so much for sharing your holiday with us and for treating us with your much known New Zealand hospitality.

February 22^nd 2007

Opua Marina to Roberton Island: 35°14.04’S Lat. and 174°10.16’E Lon.

Having spent a number of months working on our boat and a few camping/surf trips with the Ohana Kaiers. It was time to have our first visitor to NZ. My dad arrived at the airport near Auckland at 05:30, we left at Opua at 02:00 so we wouldn’t be late. He arrived with his usual cheery self and a lot of goodies for us from the states. Spending the night at the dock the boat was filled with stories of the trip and the latest happenings back home. The following day found us tacking into a nice breeze with full sail. A truly gorgeous cruising ground the Bay of Islands has many anchorages to choose from, nighttime found us in the lee of Roberton Island. After a great nights sleep and a great breakfast all aboard headed for shore to explore. Hiking to the top of the island rewarded us with a stunning view of the bay, boats plying the waters around us as we sat still on a bench for once. With snorkel gear and shorts we hit the cool water of one of the inlets of water on Roberton Island. Clear cold water where oysters and fish were seen.

February 23^rd 2007

Roberton Island to Whale Bay: 35°10.12’S Lat. and 174°06.66E Lon.

We had a great broad reach sail to an island where green lipped muscles abound. Following a fellow cruisers directions my father and I set out in the dink and left KG to sail Moorea around. No license being needed we plucked the muscles from the side of the rocks like plucking grapes from the vine. That evening I am sure you can guess that we ate some marvelous sea cuisine. Our anchorage placed us close to the entrance/exit to the Bay of Islands.

February 24^th 2007

Whale Bay to Pekapeka: 35°00.16’S Lat. and 173°44.23’E Lon.

Pekapeka located in Wangeroa Harbor is located a day sail north from the Bay of Islands. Sailing with smooth seas, lots of sun we were all enjoying the beautiful day. Upon anchoring in the secluded bay, Pop and noticed some oysters on shore. Launching the dinghy it didn’t take long to row to a rock and pry a few loose for a nice appetizer. Super calm anchorage with no swell on account of the narrow entrance to the harbor, needless to write sleep was not an issue.

February 25^th 2007

Pekapeka to Whangeroa town: 35°02.89’S Lat. and 173°44.54’E Lon.

Sailed downwind with only our jib to our next anchorage by town. The next morning we hiked up to the top of St. John’s Rock and had a view mostly of fog that lay in the bay and valley, while the sun blazed in the clear blue sky above. At a local store we purchased a few provisions and headed back to the boat for some relaxation.

February 26^th 2007

Whangeroa Harbor Back to Whale Bay:

It was time to head back to the Bay of Island as our time with Pop was limited. Motoring for 1 and ½ hours our batteries received a good charge. Sailing close hauled after the wind had filled in we made our way south. Just before our arrival to the Bay a dark front came through with gusty wind and rain, but it passed fast and we “naviguessed” back into our previous anchorage of Whale Bay.

February 27^th 2007

Whale Bay to Opua Marina:

Back at dockside we enjoyed hot freshwater showers and laundry facilities. We took our Toyota Camry that we purchased to see the biggest Kauri tree in the world, named Tane Mahuta. Driving north and west our short land tour took us to 90 mile beach where I got the Camry stuck on the beach with a rising tide. With three people pushing the car slowly started moving and once I did the car didn’t stop until it hit pavement. Pop sprung for a nice room and takeout dinner from a local business establishment.

March 2^nd 2007

Opua to Whangamumu: 35°15.12’S Lat. and 174°18.11’E Lon.

Tacking our way out from Opua bound for Whangerei. On the southern edge of the entrance to the Bay of Islands we saw the hole in the rock, a neat rock formation that you can see through. With the sun going down we took refuge in a bay called Whangamumu, out of the swell with a few other boats we settled in for the night.

March 3^rd 2007

Whangamumu to Whangerei Heads: 35°50.84’S Lat. and 174°31.86’E Lon.

Leaving the anchorage at 06:00 Moorea and crew motored south. We then arrived at Whangerei Head anchorage at 17:42, a full day.

March 4^th 2007

Whangerei Heads to Whangei town basin:

From the head of the bay we motored up river to the town of Whangerei. It was a great spot, close to town and safe to leave Moorea on some pilings for some more inland “cruising”. From here we took the car south on the North Island to the Waitomo caves. Here Pop splurged for tickets for black water rafting. With inner tubes we were given a crash course in rafting in the dark and how to jump off of a water fall backwards without getting injured. We had a great time and found the glow worms to be very interesting to look at while floating down stream in a pitch black cave. Staying in a local holiday park our room was nice and consisted of 2 bunk beds, 1 chair, and 1 sink all in about an 10X12 foot space. From there we motored to Auckland and checked out the Museum, the waterfront, and the Sky Tower. Pop’s time went fast but we had a blast and can’t thank him enough for treating us during his stay and all of the much needed “boat stuff” that he brought from the U.S. Thanks Pop!

About a week later we had a second set of visitors to NZ, my brother Chris his wife Sara and cousin Jerimiah. We had a fantastic time with them as well. Some of the sites we saw were the Kauri forest, Whangherei falls, Waitomo glow worms, Rotorua, Hobbiton, and the Sky Tower in downtown Auckland. Going to the set for the Lord of the Rings Hobbiton was a highlight for my bro, sis in law and cous being big fans of the book and ensuing movie trilogy. Seeing the Kauri’s and glow worms again was interesting and looking at new things like the hot steam and bubbling mud of Rotorua was fantastic. Also filming as Jerimiah jumped off of the tallest building in the southern hemisphere we all made memories to last a lifetime and the pictures and film to prove it! Their time as well went too fast, but we appreciated having them fly so far to see us. Thanks guys!

Back in Whangerei KG and I made an appointment to haul out the boat. She was on the hard for just under a week for the usual bottom paint and a new white boot stripe. We also pulled the rudder to inspect it and glass the skeg. It was great to get back in the water. We also sold our car to a couple of local fisherman and with that land tie now cut we were free to explore a little more of NZ by boat.

April 18^th 2007

Town Basin to Whangerei Head: 35°15.00’S Lat. and 174°18.10’E Lon.

Provisioned up and floating Moorea and crew headed down river, first by motor and then by sail back to the entrance to river. We spent the night and next day attempted to sail to the Great Barrier Islands, unfortunately we had stiff headwinds and boarding waves so KG and I opted to return to the nice

anchorage and wait for tomorrow.

April 20^th 2007

Whangerei head to Great Barrier Island: 36°08.43’S Lat. and 175°19.29’E Lon.

Instead of having too much wind mother nature brought us calm wind and seas. Tacking slowly into the wind we ended up motoring for 5 hours and arrived in the anchorage after the sun had set.

April 21^st 2007

Anchorage to Port Fitzroy: 36°09.86’S Lat. and 175°21.60’E Lon.

Motored a short distance to Port Fitroy, purchased 10 gallons of diesel. The next day found us hiking to the summit of Mt. Hobson; it took us 7 hours of walking there and back. The views of the island and surrounding water were superb.

April 23^rd 2007

Port Fitzroy to Smokehouse Bay: 36°11.99’S Lat. and 175°19.76’E Lon.

Using the iron genny through the perfectly calm and protected water we found ourselves an hour and a half later at our next beautiful anchorage. Took a bath in the outdoor tub overlooking the bay. Sailed Duxy around the bay and enjoyed the peace and quiet of the area.

April 24^th 2007

Smokehouse Bay to Whangaparapara: 36°14.60’S Lat. and 175°23.75’E Lon.

Making our way to another great spot with very few people around. Visited the old whaling station remains across the bay and received a tour of a garden from a local gentleman.

April 26^th 2007

Great Barrier Island to Opua Marina:

KG and I decided to sail overnight back to Opua to join up with our fellow cruisers. Once there we made preparations for our passage to Fiji. It is hard to believe that 5 months had passed since we got here and I hope they let me back into the country one day as I left without paying a speeding ticket!